you hear the rumors and whispers about a place and you start following the trail of hints, you hear about the waves the laid back vibe and you start searching and asking. this is a secret it will not reveal its location immediately. and then one morning, over breakfast a gorgeous guy puts the pieces together for you, gives you a name and a contact and encourages you to check it out. before breakfast has hit the bottom of your stomach there is a small bag and a board packed, plane ticket in hand and what follows is a couple crazy hours on the airport wifi madly trying find the local contact who will pick you up and drive several hours to that mystery location.
following a need to get find some waves in solitude and rest my mind & body in peace and quiet I have stumbled across a secret surfing playground
I finally arrive late at night, after a long drive through rural scenery, I’m disorientated, I could be anywhere, it takes some juggling to find a room. being over tired and travelling solo into this random unknown place, some slightly panicky thoughts bounced through my head as I try to sleep. its a restless night with bumps and strange noises
dawn comes quietly, theres no traffic noise, the sky is clear blue. the warmth is gently rising from the earth. there is no acreage of concrete and bitumen, just green fields out the back window and green grass nature strip between me and the beach out the front. no swimming pools or fancy bits, a simple clean kitchen where I can prep up a healthy breakfast and see what is on offer here
three other bikes on the road .. wow that’s got to be a record! and the quiet track bends by the river, down to the point. small swell with a long peeling left hander, two people in the water, greenery all around
the unessentials are missing… not a fancy resort, bar or night club to be seen.
an abundance of the essentials; friendly locals, cheap food ( soto ayam for 60cents), eclectic mix of travellers and a laid back surf vibe. a vibrant little fishing harbour at one end of the beach and the long stretch of sand bends up to a point break. little local warangs dot the road side and the local town is 5 mins by scooter with night markets and fresh produce.
there is time and peace here, I feel a strong spiritual renewal. some surf sessions im totally solo, as the swell is pretty small, it long board time. its a friendly easy wave. some days are for exploring with my hosts, surfing coral bays with pure white sand. evening are spent chatting in the kitchen & dining zone meeting new souls
and as the tiredness and tension fades away over the days I start to bubble with excitement … this place would be perfect for a friend of friends surf adventure. something simple and authentic. the point break is perfect for practising and refining pop-ups, duck dives, turns, experimenting and trying out new moves … and … oh the bliss of surfing in warm water and sunshine… ..
here is my offer to you. come join me as we head over to this beautiful place in May 2014. you can short cut on the jumbled, over tired journey and get right into the goodness with a like minded and similar ability surfers, your adventure will be packed full of good times, surf lessons, travel. the groups will be small to keep it intimate and uncrowded.
Beyond surfing theres night markets to explore, hot water springs and caves and trails that wind off everywere.
the surf will vary from week to week, we will be aiming to get you onto the best waves for your ability
I look forward to sharing another travel adventure in this Secret Surfing Playground with you